Note: For using pre-made gates, refer to Step 10. This step will give you the proper width to set posts on either side of the gate opening.

Important: Customer is solely responsible for determining product compliance with all city, county, state and federal codes, restrictions, ordinances, or permit requirements. Also, prior to any digging or excavation, Texas state law requires a 48 hour notice to the "ONE CALL SYSTEM OF TEXAS" (Ph#1-800-545-6005). If you are not in Texas, please call your local or state utilities protection service.

A : Use a one piece
 

• For 4' tall fence,
  A= 47" out of ground

• For 5' tall fence,
  A= 59" out of ground

• For 6' tall fence,
  A= 71" out of ground

B : Use a 3-piece setup (Brace Band, Rail End Cup & Dome Cap)

• For 4' tall fence,
  B= 48" out of ground

• For 5' tall fence,
  B= 60" out of ground

• For 6' tall fence,
  B= 72" out of ground

• Make a mark on all terminal posts 2" down from the top (with magic marker).  Next, stretch your nylon string between the 2 terminal posts keeping you nylon string on the marks 2" down from the top. Use this line as a guide for the line posts. Set all line posts in concrete. This method should be used where the ground is fairly level. If it is not, ask an American Fence Salesperson for help.

Parts Required For A 3-Piece Terminal Post Cap

• Slide top rail through a couple loop caps and butt end firmly into the rail end cup on the 1-piece terminal post cap. If you have the 3-piece terminal post cap setup (dome cap, brace band & rail end cup), adjust height of rail end cup if necessary.
• Our top rail has a swedged end, which tapers down so it will fit into another piece of top rail. Fit the non-swedged end into the rail end cup at the end or corner posts. Add sections of rail, sliding each non-swedged end into a swedged end. Be certain to push rails toward your beginning point to 'seat' them all the way into each other. Push firmly. If the top rail has no swedged end then you need sleeves to join top rail together. Add additional top rail until you reach the next terminal post, i.e. end, corner, gate post.
• Cut excess rail off with hack saw or pipe cutter.  Mark the cut-off point carefully so the rail will fit snugly into the rail end cup. Any slack in your entire length of rail will allow the chain link, when stretched tight, to pull the end posts in towards each other.
• Install top rail in all stretches of fence. At this point, visually check the height of line posts once top rail is installed. If a post is too high, remove rail and trim as necessary. If a post is 1/4" too short you may also cut a sliver of pipe, the same diameter size as the line post and slip it under the loop cap.

Base Wire (optional)

• For each section of fence, stretch a piece of base wire from one terminal post to the next. Base wire should be installed 2" off of ground and on the same side that fabric will be going on. Attach base wire to line posts with aluminum tie wires, 2" off of ground.

• Roll out chainlink fabric in front of framework (usually on outside of fence).

• On 6' tall and higher, if you want the Twists(points) up on the fence, be sure to roll out the wire with the points away from the framework. If you want the Knuckles up on the fence, be sure to roll out the wire with the knuckles away from the framework.

• Note: 4' tall and 5' tall chainlink have Knuckles on top and bottom. Because of this, there is no need to distinguish which side of chinlink is rolled out away from the framework.

• Now stand up the end that is away from the roll, insert tension bar and attach to terminal post with tension bands.

Chainlink Framework

• Stand the wire up along the framework and loosely tie it about every 20 feet. This is only to keep chainlink from falling on you as you get further away from the terminal post.
• Let the wire extend on past the terminal post you are about to tie off to. Attach your come-a-long at the mid-point on this terminal post. Extend the come-a-long cable out about 8 feet or so. Note: Come-a-long must be on the inside of the fabric and framework.
• Drop a tension bar down through the chainlink fabric and attach to come-a-long with an A-Frame (stretch tool). If you don't have the A-Frame stretch tool, it can be simulated with something as simple as a piece of rope, wire or chain.
• Begin stretching the chainlink by pulling on the come-a-long ratchet bar. Make sure you are not snagged on the ground or grass and that the loose tie wires (you just installed) are not obstructing a clean and full stretch from one end to the other. Do not over-stretch the wire. The desired tightness is when you can put your fingers through the mesh and just barely squeeze the diamonds together.
• After stretching to desired tightness, you will be left with 4 to 5 feet of loose chainlink wire at the end of the stretch. Pull this wire as tight as you can manage by hand. Cut excess wire away (see picture).
• Insert the tension bar, install the bands, release the tension on the come-a-long.
• Straighten the chainlink and install the aluminum tie wires along the top rail and down each line post.

Cutting & Splicing Chainlink Fabric

• For WALK Through gates, your gate opening should be 4" wider than the actual gate frame width.
• Common openings (inside post to inside post) for Walk gates: 39", 48", 61", 73", 97"

• For DRIVE Through gates, your gate opening should be 6" wider than the combined actual gate frame widths.
• Common openings (inside post to inside post) for Drive gates: 10', 12', 14', 16', 20'

• All gates are 3" shorter than stated height. This is for ground clearance.