How to Install
High Tensile Barbed Wire and Field Fence
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Building A Fence With Gaucho®
High Tensile Barbed Wire and Field Fence
Planning A Gaucho® High Tensile Barbed Wire Fence
Since a Gaucho® fence should last at least 25 years, depending on
environmental conditions, it makes good sense to really plan your fencing project. So,
instead of simply replacing the current fence exactly as it was, think about the long term
use of the land, the changes you might want to eventually make and the changes planned by
the county or other governmental agencies.
Begin by sketching a map of your farm or ranch. The best item to have is an aerial map of your property. They're easily obtained from any of the following:

Fig. 1
Next lay out a good land use plan. (Fig. 1) Make land assignments for pastures, hay and perhaps crop land or wildlife areas. From this plan, figure your current and anticipated fencing needs.
Fencing Costs Can Be Shared
Neighbors often share in the cost of building or replacing boundary fences.
Cost-share assistance from the U.S. Department of Agriculture may also be available. Check
with your county's Agriculture Stabilization and Conservation Office.

Fig. 2
Make A Fence Plan
Sketch out your fence needs (Fig. 2) to the same scale as your land use plan.
You should be able to figure how many linear feet your fence will be. For even greater
accuracy, run a measured string along your planned fence line. Add up the total length
minus gate openings. Fencing is sold by the rod, 80 rods or 1,320 feet per roll.
Selecting The Right Style of Fence
For the most economical combination of materials, designs and construction
methods, consider these questions:
Barbed Wire
There are two styles available, 2-point and 4-point in 151Ú2 ga. wire. A
choice between the two styles is primarily a personal preference.

Fig. 3a
Woven Wire
Woven wire fencing provides for an excellent boundary fence for both small and
large livestock. It's easier to see, and it has more stopping power. Often, a woven fence
topped with one or two strands of barbed wire is used for boundary fencing while 3- to
5-strand barbed wire fencing is used for cross fencing. A 5- to 6-strand high tensile
barbed wire configuration also makes an excellent boundary fence. Following are some of
the most common fencing configurations in use today. (Fig. 3a and 3b)

Fig. 3b
5 Common Fencing Configurations
Class 1 or Class 3 Galvanization
Remember, air humidity, blowing sand or dust, abrasive chemicals in the soil, air-applied crop dusting fertilizer, salt and pollution drastically reduce fence life. Class 1 galvanizing is the nominal protective coating used on standard barbed wire. Class 3 galvanizing is used on all Bekaert high-tensile wire and provides a heavier, longer-lasting protective coating.

Fig. 4
Laying Out A Fence Line
Clear the planned fence line so you have an unobstructed work area. Set a
flagged 6-ft. stake at each end, and station another person at one of the stakes. Starting
from the opposite end, set 4-ft. stakes every 100 feet using the other person to verify
correct placement. (Fig. 4) Remember, on boundary fences put wire on the inside of the
posts.
Corner & Braced Line Assemblies
When To Build Single or Double
Single span assemblies are used for corners on flat ground when spanning 165
ft. or less. Use braced line assemblies on rolling ground with spans of 165 ft. or less.

Fig. 5
Double span assemblies are used for corners and braced line assemblies when spans reach up to 600 ft. Also use them with any size curved fence and game fence construction. (Fig. 5)
How To Build Braced Assemblies
Position the assembly by sighting down your newly created fence line. Dig the
post holes 42" deep. Use a level or plumb bob.
Fit the horizontal brace post between the upright posts. Fasten it to the uprights 6-8 inches below the post tops with steel dowels drilled into both the horizontal and upright posts. (Fig. 5) Corner and

Fig. 6
Then wrap the brace wire around the posts two times. Staple the wire at the bottom of the anchor post and at the top of the brace post. (Fig. 6) Use 121Ú2 ga. high tensile smooth wire.

Fig. 7
Finally tighten the brace wire with a pressure-treated 11Ú2" x 2" x 24" twitch post. Fasten it permanently. (Fig. 7)

Fig. 8
Setting The Fence Line
Run a single strand of barbed wire along the ground between the anchor posts at
each end of the distance to be spanned and tighten. This strand will be your guide for
keeping the posts in a straight line. (Fig. 8)
Decide on the spacing dictated by both fence style and the prevailing wind, weed and snow problems for your area. If wind blows heavy weeds like Russian thistle against your fence, or if you receive heavy snows, place wooden posts and steel tee-posts not more than 20 ft. apart. In moist areas, 20-ft. metal post spacing can be used with every third or fourth post made of wood. In some areas, 20-ft. post spacing with fence stays used between the posts is recommended.
Fencing techniques vary widely from area to area, but with Gaucho® high tensile barbed wire you can move your line posts farther apart than you can with standard barbed wire. This saves time and money. Lay Of The Land

Fig. 9
If your fence must curve, place a double brace assembly at the center of the curve. Keep the fencing on the outside of the curve by switching post sides at the brace assembly. (Fig. 9)

Fig. 10

Fig. 11
| Lay of the Land Protect against electrical shock when using wooden posts by building a fence ground every 150 ft. Keep fence stays no lower than 3-4 inches below the bottom line of your fence. (Fig. 12) Setting The Posts Dig line post holes 24-30 inches deep. Set post in hole and backfill with dirt. Tamp and pack dirt after every shovelful, or a backfill of a combination of sand and pea gravel is also excellent for tamping posts. If you use steel posts, use a post driver. Drive each post until the anchor plate is 2-3 inches below the ground. Assembling The Gaucho® Barbed Wire Fence |
Fig. 12 |

Fig. 13
2. Unroll no more than 2 strands at a time. Pay out wire on the side you want the fence. Work one span at a time between a corner and braced assembly. Roll straight off the back from the bottom. (Fig. 13) Customized systems for unrolling more than one strand of wire at a time are sometimes available locally.
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Fig. 14
3. If you start with less than a full reel and run out, carefully splice a new strand onto the old by wrapping each end onto the other. Wrap each end tightly with pliers 5-8 times. (Fig. 14)

Fig. 15
4. Make a dummy post, or use a tree or another solid item 8 ft. beyond the braced assembly. It will serve as a temporary place to attach your wire stretcher. (Fig. 15)
5. As you start to tighten strand, walk the line to free it from obstructions. Tighten the wire manually. It will tighten even more when it's fastened to each post.

Fig. 16
![]() Fig. 17 |
![]() Fig. 18 |
6. After tightening the strand so that it is taut, staple the strand to each part of the braced assembly. Cut one wire of the tightened strand between the anchor post and the still taut wire stretcher. Wrap this one wire 3 times around the anchor post and the strand. Staple. (Figs. 16, 17, 18)
7. Fasten each strand to each post. Start midway and work towards both ends.
8. Increase the overall strength of your fence by using fence stays at 10 ft. intervals over the length of the fence.
How much do I need?
This worksheet will help you quickly estimate the amount of materials and the
approximate costs involved in building your new fence. Complete this form and take it to
your local fence dealer, and they will help you place your order right from this
worksheet!
Barbed Wire Rolls (2- or 4-point) Ñ 80-Rod Rolls
____ Length of fence in feet (5,280 ft. = 1 mile)
____ Number of strands
____ Total wire length needed (Length of fence x Number of strands)
____ Number of 80-rod (1,320 ft.) rolls (Total wire length divided by 1,320)
Field Fence Rolls Ñ 20-Rod Rolls
____ Length of fence in feet (5,280 ft. = 1 mile)
____ Number of fence rolls (Total fence length divided by length of roll) 20-rod rolls
(330 ft. per roll)
Posts
____ Length of line post (Height of fence + Depth of hole)
____ Number of wood line posts @ 20 ft. max. spacing
-or-
____ Number of steel line posts @ 12 - 14 ft. spacing
____ Length of corner/brace post (Height of fence + Depth of hole)
____ Number of corner/brace posts
Fence Hardware
____ Number of fence stays (Barbed wire only)
____ Number of fence clips for use with steel line posts
____ Fence stay length (Distance between top and bottom wires)
____ Number of staples (Use Bekaert Class 3 galvanized staples)
____ Number of compression sleeves (if desired) (Woven fence only)
Tools
____ Pliers
____ Tightening Tool (ÒCome-alongÓ)
____ Hammer
____ Crimping Tool
____ Wire Cutter
____ String
____ Post Hole Digger
____ Flag Stakes
____ Post Driver
Safety Gear
____ Safety Glasses
____ Gloves
____ Protective Clothing
Building A Gaucho® High Tensile Field Fence
Since field fence rolls are heavier than barbed wire rolls, you should spend
the time necessary to clear a wide enough fence line area to allow you to unroll the
fencing.
1. Unroll the fence on the side of the posts you want it placed with the bottom nearest the posts. Leave approximately 2-3 extra feet of fencing at the anchor post.
2. Strip the first two vertical stay wires so that you have at least 12 inches of line wire. With the last stay wire against the anchor post, staple the fence at the correct position. Start with the middle wire, wrap each free line wire tightly around the anchor post and then back on itself for at least 5 wraps.
3. Slowly unroll the fence to the next braced assembly.
Fig. 20 |
Fig. 21 |
| 4. Stop as the fence is rolling out to prop the fencing
upright as shown. (Fig. 20) 5. Splice as needed. Commercial compression sleeves are well worth the cost. (Fig. 21) 6. If compression sleeves are not used, leave 6 inches of line wire beyond the last stay wire on both ends of the fence rolls. Match the vertical stays, then wrap each free end of both fence rolls to the opposite fence. (Fig. 22) |
Fig. 22 |

Fig. 23
7. Build a dummy brace for tightening the fence from 2 x 4's the height of the fence being erected. Drill three or four holes through both boards and bolt together with carriage bolts. Attach a piece of chain to both top and bottom and attach come-along to get an even pull. Manually pull the fence taut. Use two wire stretchers if the fencing is taller than 32 inches to maintain an even pull. Tighten as you would standard field fence. (Fig. 23)

Fig. 24
8. Walk the fence line, pulling the fence free of obstructions. When the fence line is tight, fasten at least every other line wire top to bottom, beginning at the middle of the fence line. Staple the fence to each braced assembly post driving staples at an angle. (Fig. 24)
Special Considerations When Building a Game Fence
Use longer posts, preferably 12 ft. in length. Set each line post 36 inches
deep. Set braced assembly posts 48 inches deep.
Always use double span corner assemblies. Place a braced assembly at least every 660 ft.

Fig. 26
Add 1-3 strands of barbed wire to make the total fence height at least 7 ft. tall. (Fig. 26)
Gaucho® Game Fence is taller, but not much heavier than standard field fence. Erect it much as any other woven fence.
Crossing Waterways
Build Your Floodgate To Be Flexible
If your fence crosses a gully that occasionally floods, a creek, or irrigation
ditch, it's best to build a floodgate extending from the bottom line wire to a depth equal
to the water level or the lowest point of the ditch. String a stranded cable beneath the
fence, attach it to the second post back on each side of the ditch and pull tight. This is
the cable from where you should hang your flood gate. Do not anchor the flood gates. They
should swing free so driftwood and debris can pass through.

Fig. 27
A good looking option for very narrow or very shallow ditches is to build your panel with pipe welded in the proper shape. String barbed wire across the panel and hinge the panel to the stranded cable. (Fig. 27)

Fig. 28
Another, flexible option for spans less than 20 ft. is a panel made of pressure-treated 1" x 4" boards. Cut the boards to approximate the contour of the ditch, then fasten the boards into a single panel with Class 3, 9 ga. merchant wire, stapling the wire to each board, leaving 4 - 6 inches between boards. Loop the merchant wire at the top to form a hinge, allowing the panel to swing on the stranded support cable. (Fig. 28) Ask your dealer for Bekaert galvanized merchant wire.
Remember to make floodgates separate from the rest of your fence. This helps minimize the possibility of damage to the overall fence.
The National Bureau of Standards within the U.S. Department of Commerce has standardized a set of 8 standard heights for woven wire. The fence design number means the following:
First Number = Number of horizontal wires & height in inches
Second Number = Vertical stay wire spacing in inches
Third Number = Gauge of the intermediate wires
For example, 939-6-121Ú2 means 9 horizontal wires for a total height of 39 in., 6-inch stay wire spacing, and 121Ú2 ga. line wires.
Here's What Makes Gaucho® High Tensile Fence Better!
1. Gaucho® high tensile barbed wire is 50% lighter than standard barbed wire and has the same linear strength.
2. Gaucho® high tensile fencing has heavier galvanization than standard fencing and therefore lasts much longer.
3. Gaucho® high tensile fencing is easier to install. Its lighter weight makes it easier to handle.